A culinary insight and what on earth is a ‘plun pilhi’?

A culinary insight and what on earth is a ‘plun pilhi’? -

 This week, have you ever thought about embarking upon a culinary journey that transcends mere eating; a journey to experience a destination’s essence through its flavours. 

Imagine savouring dishes passed down through generations, each bite whispering tales of history, tradition, and local life. 

On Norfolk Island, you can have a holiday adventure for your taste buds, where you'll uncover our island's secrets, one delicious ingredient at a time.

_______________

As Norfolk Islanders of Pitcairn descent, we have a unique ethnicity of common ancestry and shared historical memories.

When settling into our new homeland of Norfolk Island, land was cleared, homes were built, livestock, was tended, produce was gathered, fished and farmed. 

Our style of cooking and preparing seasonal food stems from Polynesian practices. Our Norfolk Island community traces our traditional ecological knowledge (TEK) to our legacy of Tahitian foremothers with their wisdom of local plants, complementary medicines, preparations and cooking styles, innate knowledge of the ocean surrounds and sea life which were a cornerstone for the community’s survival on Pitcairn.

This traditional ecological knowledge was re-attuned to adapt to the new seasons and weather patterns of Norfolk Island, as well as the flora and fauna, which were found here when the Pitcairn Islanders arrived in 1856.

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Norfolk Island's unique geographical location and limited resources have fostered culinary practices that are both resourceful and creative. 

Let’s share some of the challenges and innovations of cooking on Norfolk Island, from the reliance on seasonal produce to the art of substitution.  We'll delve into the island's most versatile dish, the 'pilhi', and how it embodies this adaptable spirit of Norfolk Island cuisine.

A Norfolk cook is one who is resourceful, enterprising, and endlessly creative - particularly when turning the challenges of limited resources into opportunities for innovation.

It’s about consistently approaching the kitchen with the spirit of adventure! Particularly as living on the island is not just about following recipes, but about working with what's available and making the most of it. This might mean preserving an abundance of seasonal produce for leaner times, or finding new ways to prepare familiar ingredients to keep meals interesting.

Adaptability is perhaps the most crucial skill of a Norfolk cook, as it is customary to be ready to change plans at a moment's notice, based on what ingredients are available. 

Cooking on Norfolk Island can be a delicate dance between nature's bounty and the unpredictable arrival of supply ships. The island's culinary landscape is shaped by: the seasonal availability of homegrown produce and the stock levels in local stores. This unique situation creates a cooking environment that is both challenging and exciting.

Seasonal produce plays a crucial role in Norfolk Island's cuisine. Islanders have learned to embrace the ebb and flow of nature, adapting their menus to what the land provides at any given time. This connection to the earth not only ensures fresher ingredients but also fosters a deep appreciation for the island's natural cycles.

Untold Norfolk Island Travel Podcast Series - Sponsored by Baunti Tours www.bauntitours.com

Transcript

A culinary insight and what on earth is a ‘plun pilhi’? -

Welcome to Episode 6 of the Untold Norfolk Island travel podcast series.

My name is Jodie Williams and as a Norfolk Islander & Churchill Fellow, I am your ‘on island’ podcast host.

>>Audio snippet - Singalong recording: 'Little Green Valley'

And that was a musical snippet of a sing-a-long evening & gathering with family and friends at one of our island homes.
________

This week, have you ever thought about embarking upon a culinary journey that transcends mere eating; a journey to experience a destination’s essence through its flavours.

Imagine savouring dishes passed down through generations, each bite whispering tales of history, tradition, and local life.

On Norfolk Island, you can have a holiday adventure for your taste buds, where you'll uncover our island's secrets, one delicious ingredient at a time.
_______________

As Norfolk Islanders of Pitcairn descent, we have a unique ethnicity of common ancestry and shared historical memories.

When settling into our new homeland of Norfolk Island, land was cleared, homes were built, livestock was tended, produce was gathered, fished and farmed.

Our style of cooking and preparing seasonal food stems from Polynesian practices. Our Norfolk Island community traces our traditional ecological knowledge (TEK) to our legacy of Tahitian foremothers with their wisdom of local plants, complementary medicines, preparations and cooking styles, innate knowledge of the ocean surrounds and sea life which were a cornerstone for the community’s survival on Pitcairn.

This traditional ecological knowledge was re-attuned to adapt to the new seasons and weather patterns of Norfolk Island, as well as the flora and fauna, which were found here when the Pitcairn Islanders arrived in 1856.


Norfolk Island's unique geographical location and limited resources have fostered culinary practices that are both resourceful and creative.

Let’s share some of the challenges and innovations of cooking on Norfolk Island, from the reliance on seasonal produce to the art of substitution. We'll delve into the island's most versatile dish, the 'pilhi', and how it embodies this adaptable spirit of Norfolk Island cuisine.

A Norfolk cook is one who is resourceful, enterprising, and endlessly creative - particularly when turning the challenges of limited resources into opportunities for innovation.

It’s about consistently approaching the kitchen with the spirit of adventure! Particularly as living on the island is not just about following recipes, but about working with what's available and making the most of it. This might mean preserving an abundance of seasonal produce for leaner times, or finding new ways to prepare familiar ingredients to keep meals interesting.

Adaptability is perhaps the most crucial skill of a Norfolk cook, as it is customary to be ready to change plans at a moment's notice, based on what ingredients are available.

Cooking on Norfolk Island can be a delicate dance between nature's bounty and the unpredictable arrival of supply ships. The island's culinary landscape is shaped by: the seasonal availability of homegrown produce and the stock levels in local stores. This unique situation creates a cooking environment that is both challenging and exciting.

Seasonal produce plays a crucial role in Norfolk Island's cuisine. Islanders have learned to embrace the ebb and flow of nature, adapting their menus to what the land provides at any given time. This connection to the earth not only ensures fresher ingredients but also fosters a deep appreciation for the island's natural cycles.

However, not everything can be grown on the island, and this is where the anticipation of cargo ships comes into play. The phrase "Does anyone know when the ship is due?" is more than just casual conversation—it's a vital piece of information that can determine what's for dinner. As shelves in local stores begin to empty, there's a palpable excitement and uncertainty about what new ingredients the next ship might bring!

The art of substitution is the Norfolk-style of foraging. On Norfolk Island, 'foraging' takes on a whole new meaning, by not only gathering what is available and on hand in the garden, but we also often find ourselves hunting through kitchen cupboards and local stores, seeking creative substitutions for missing recipe ingredients. Yes, we are resourceful Norfolk Island cooks!

The process of cooking often begins with selecting a recipe, but it quickly changes into a treasure hunt. Hmmmm what ingredients are on hand, what's in season, and what might be available in local stores. This approach to cooking requires flexibility, creativity and a willingness to experiment.

Substitution is key in Norfolk Island cooking. If a recipe calls for an ingredient that's not available, we don't give up—we get creative. This might mean using a local fruit in place of a more exotic one, or finding a clever way to mimic a texture or a flavour using what's on hand. This adaptability not only allows for continued taste sensation variety but also often results in unique and delicious Norfolk Island variations of classic dishes.

Cooking on Norfolk Island is more than just a means of sustenance—it's a social activity that brings the community together. The challenges of cooking with limited and unpredictable resources have fostered a culture of sharing and collaboration that extends beyond individual kitchens.
One of the most charming aspects of Norfolk Island's culinary scene is the informal network of produce and ingredient sharing. When the cargo ship arrives, news spreads quickly about what’s now available so we can share purchases, replace borrowed ingredients, or let others know what you’ve now found at the store.

Recipe sharing is another important aspect of Norfolk Island's cooking culture. Successful adaptations of recipes or new creations are often shared among friends and family, and can quickly become island-wide favourites.

Community fundraising events and potlucks are common on Norfolk Island, and often showcase our ability to create abundance from limited resources, with tables often groaning under the weight of diverse and creative dishes.

Among the many dishes that showcase the adaptability of Norfolk Island cuisine, none is more representative than the 'pilhi'. This versatile baked dish is a staple of Norfolk Island cooking and a perfect embodiment of the island's culinary philosophy.

The pilhi is essentially a baked dish made from a variety of grated or mashed ingredients. Its base can be made from banana, kumera (sweet potato) or pumpkin. What makes the pilhi truly special is its ability to transform based on the ingredients used. A pilhi made during banana season will have a completely different character from one made when pumpkins are abundant. This adaptability ensures that even though pilhi is a frequent dish on Norfolk tables, it rarely tastes the same twice. This flexibility in ingredients makes the pilhi a true reflection of Norfolk Island's 'use what you have' approach to cooking.

On Pitcairn Island our foremothers prepared food with what few utensils they had available and since these were irreplaceable, they became precious possessions to be handled with the most tender loving care.

Grow, pick, cut, grate, stir, blend, mash...

Are you often aware of where is your concentration when you are cooking? Or are you thinking about emails to do, or tasks to finish at work.... Are you aware of your hand actually stirring the ingredients? Or do you throw it all into a whizzer because you haven’t got much time today ...?
Are you in a hurry? Or are you breathing slowly and enjoying the manifold sensations of smell, touch and the occasional ‘dip your finger in’ taste-test ?
Can you taste the love in it?
Is that at all possible?

I believe it can make a difference ~ being aware of your body movements and mindset as you creatively prepare and cook a meal for your loved ones. And yet I can’t explain it properly in words, because for some reason it is all in the final taste sensation.

Many Island elders insist that the plun (banana) fritters taste ‘oh, so much better’ when prepared with a traditional yolor (grater). How can that be? How can the taste be ‘sweeter’ when you’re using the same single ingredient (such as the banana) without knowing whether or not it has been prepared with a yolor or a stainless steel tin grater?

Certainly, it takes longer with the yolor so it’s not a time-saving exercise... Preparation is slowed, the use of an ‘old object’ visually reminds you of days past, the feel is different... and ‘somehow’ this correlates to a better tasting dish?

A few of these small slabs of lava rock were brought from Pitcairn Island in 1856 to Norfolk Island. The yolor is considered one of the most prized and treasured possessions in a Norfolk family home. These small slabs are on average 35cm in length and 20cm wide with diamond shaped grooves hand hewn (heavily pitted) into the surface. To use, the yolor is dampened with water and by taking sweet potatoes or green bananas you grate directly them onto the yolor, in a circular motion.

There are 10 varieties of pilhi listed in the Sunshine Club’s Norfolk Island Cookery Book  and they all involve grating or mashing vegetables and fruits into a mixture that can be baked. 

>>> Audio snippet with the late Ruby Matthews

The word ‘plun’ for banana originated on Pitcairn as an abbreviated form of plantain. The use of the banana demonstrates the many ways we prepare and cook ‘plun’ from green to ripe yellow, to over- ripe and almost black!

Cooking with Ripe Bananas
Plun Pilhi (Banana Pilhi)
Ingredients:

1 dozen very ripe bananas

1 cup Plain flour

1/2 teaspoon salt

1/2 teaspoon bicarbonate of soda.

Mash the bananas lightly. Add salt & bicarb soda, then flour. Place in a baking tray. Cook in a moderate oven for about an hour. This dish is always used as a vegetable to accompany the main meal of fish or meat.

Cooking with Green Bananas:
Mudda
Ingredients:
Pour 2 cans of coconut milk OR 2 cups of milk and 2 cups of water into a saucepan and gently bring to the boil. Place spoonfuls of the banana mixture into the milk as separate dumplings. Cook slowly for 15 minutes.This recipe is delicious with fish and meat dishes.

Green Plun Fritters (Green Banana Fritters) 

Peel green bananas with a knife and grate into a bowl, add salt. Deep fry spoonfuls. Serve with a dipping sauce of cream & maple syrup.A childhood favourite!

Banana leaves were traditionally used for the wrapping of pilhi prior to placing the dish into the oven. The edges were then folded toward the centre creating a wrapped ‘parcel’ which is then placed onto a baking tray and into the oven. If you don’t have a banana leaf on hand and are in a hurry with the weekday meals, Glad Bake will serve just as nicely, but for our special celebration days such as Anniversary Day (Bounty Day) commemorated in June of each year, the pilhi is wrapped and cooked in a banana leaf in decoration as gracefully placed on the picnic table.

Community and family celebrations on the island such as birthdays, Christmas or Thanksgiving is a mixed-age-fusion around a culinary hub... preferably dining outdoors (it tastes better there too!).

Lay a tablecloth and decorate it with delicacies such as fish, meat, chicken, pilhi, rice, anna, fritters, vegetable dishes, breads. It’s an colourful, aromatic masterpiece. A blessing is traditionally sung then plates are filled... You can almost anticipate the local refrain of... ‘myse eye must be bigger den myse bally’ (ie. ‘my eyes are bigger than my stomach’)... as you cram too much onto your dinner plate, and then cannot possible finish it all!

The whistle of the kettle boiling heralds clearing the table, to be ... re-laden! This time with lemon pies, coconut pies, passionfruit pies, delicious puddings and fresh seasonal fruits. And finally, once “everybody se moosa buss” (‘everyone is full to nearly bursting’), you may spot an elder sidle past to the nearest couch or bed for an afternoon siesta. That is their privilege with age! The rest of us (aged 60 years & under!) clean up, wash dishes, dry dishes, talk, laugh, wrap up leftovers to take home....

and finally we sit down for... yet another, cup of tea!

>>> audio captured in 1957 in the Norf’k language

Merv Buffett shares  with growing bananas in the era he grew up in, a new banana patch consists of 60 plants “suckers”. This amount would keep a family supplied with enough bananas throughout the year. 

They were traditionally planted on a hillside and cleverly placed on slopes facing north to soak up the maximum amount of sunlight, essential for healthy growth and abundant fruit.

In 2006, Professor Philip Hayward from the University of Macquarie shared his thesis research in a book publication entitled: ‘Bounty Chords’.

Our Norfolk tradition of Christian hymn singing was prolific in both sacred and secular environments from the arrival of the Pitcairners in 1856. Many of these hymns were sung in numerous social settings, outside specific church environments. It was common in the early days to hear refrains of ‘In the Sweet By & By’ as sung by an island elder as he planted in his garden. Or there are stories of islanders riding horseback across the island and singing at the top of their voices these favourite hymns.

Professor Hayward uncovered, much to his surprise, that: ‘The set of hymns had, to a large extent, filled the role that traditional folk music did elsewhere.’

Gardeners ritualistically echoed the valley surrounds, crooning hymns to the rhythm of ploughing, weeding, planting. It was tradition to sing and work, then ‘cook for a crowd’... 

The banana tree is one example of traditional ecological knowledge as the banana was harvested in its entirety - ie. the bark was used for plaiting hats, the leaf was used for wrapping food for cooking, the green banana as well as the over-ripe banana featured in both sweet and savoury family meals. The whole banana trees were used.

While bananas are undoubtedly a culinary staple on Norfolk Island, their uses extend far beyond the kitchen. The island's resourceful community have found numerous creative and practical applications for this versatile fruit, showcasing the ingenuity and sustainability-minded spirit of the community.

One surprising use of bananas on Norfolk Island is in traditional crafts.

The late Dianne Buffett published her cherished book ‘Plaiting in Paradise’, to share the traditional art of plaiting on the island. 

Quote:
‘Upon the islands in the Pacific, the art of plaiting is defined by the creative use of limited natural resources and therefore, each island approaches this art in a different way ~

On Norfolk Island there are five main materials used for plaiting: rahooloo - banana tree bark, corn husk, drain flax, moo-oo and the kentia palm fronds.'

Excerpt from Plaiting in Paradise:

It could be said that the local plun is an icon of the Norfolk Island culture. Its fruit is a versatile food that is cooked in absolutely every manner to form our traditional island dishes, its leaves are used as baking paper, and of course its bark for plaiting. 

Often used for its vibrant colour and rough texture, rahooloo can add character to your work.


On Norfolk Island, the dried banana leaves, known locally as 'rahooloo,' played a significant role in traditional farming practices. Farmers often used these readily available leaves as bedding for their pigs, particularly for sows giving birth. The rahooloo provided a natural, absorbent layer, keeping the piglets warm and comfortable. 

While the pilhi stands out as a quintessential Norfolk Island dish, it's far from the only culinary delight the island has to offer. The same principles of adaptability and resourcefulness that make the pilhi so versatile are applied to a wide range of dishes, creating a diverse and unique cuisine.

Fresh fish, when available, is prepared in various ways—grilled, baked, or used in stews and curries. The exact preparation often depends on the type of fish caught and what accompanying ingredients are on hand.

The use of not only ripe, but also unripe fruits and vegetables in cooking was specific to lengthening the season for which they could be used. 

Our island recipes are simple in method and delicious in taste. 

And we’re so looking forward to sharing these with you.

I know when you visit the island you will enjoy that experience of ‘eat til you se moosa buss!’… and I bet you can taste the love in it!

Thanks so much for joining me this week!